DISCLAIMER: As I slowly catch up to this blog, some entries may be out of order. Today, for instance, I'm writing about our trip to Budapest two years ago! We were there Sept. 29 - Oct. 2, 2010. I'm reminded of it now because on of my best friends is about to embark on her own journey to Hungary and I wanted to share with her - and you - the highlights of my trip there.
I LOVE BUDAPEST!
We tasted dozens of tiny, open-faced sandwiches, partied on an old Russian submarine, listened to a string quartet in a palace courtyard overlooking the city, cruised the Danube, soaked in a traditional spa, explored the city's totalitarian past and romantic splendour, took in modern and traditional dance performances and ate a lot of pig knuckles. They were so good! We stayed longer than planned because I was loathe to leave. It was, by far, my favourite of the Eastern European cities we visited that trip.
A rocky start, a heavy-hearted day, a luxurious soak in one of the many spas, or a romantic river cruise … whatever one moment brings in Budapest, the next is sure to change it. Best known as the “city of spas,” it is also a fashion capital, a foodie’s paradise, an architectural wonder, a visceral history lesson and an inexpensive adventure through the heart of Eastern Europe. *
*Although I loved visiting Budapest, if I had to choose one of these cities to live in, it would be Vienna or Berlin
The moment we left the train station, I was enamoured.
Well, not quite.
Actually, Budapest's primary train station is quite a scary place after dark.
Men, shouting and smoking, crowd around small falafel stands and offer informal currency exchanges next to the train tracks. The smell of spices, sweat and marijuana surround them. Ten-thirty at night is not the best time to arrive. It is dark, alien and pulsing with black market business.
We did not have a hotel reservation but (luckily) there is a small internet café in the station.
A few moments and a harried currency exchange later, we have an address and availability but no booking. Taxis line the street outside, and we directed one to our chosen accommodation. There, the front desk assures me the rate online “must have been mistaken” and that the actual price per night is one hundred Euros more than the website had quoted.
Nearing midnight, we finally found ourselves a new cabbie / friend / translator named Laslo and with him a reasonable, mid-range hotel just off Andrassy, the city’s main boulevard.
It was called Hotel Pest. Clean and comfortable, it is located close to bookstores, cafes, wine bars, restaurants, museums, the opera house, the river ... everything you'd want. Breakfast is included in the room rate and includes a buffet of toast, hard boiled egg, salami and fruit. The hotel is now undergoing renovations and will reopen this Summer as CASATI BudaPEST Hotel. The website is here. Prices range from 60 - 90 Euros per night for a very large, comfortable room with a king sized bed.
Before we arrived in Budapest, travellers we met along the way offered some advice.
“If gypsies are playing in one of the cafés or bars, don’t look them in the eye,” said a man from Ottawa when we met him in Zagreb, Croatia, “You’ll end up buying them all expensive drinks – trust me.”
“You must eat lots of delicate little cakes,” a woman from Montreal told us on the train from Venice.
“Be careful of ladies in the night,” our friend in Bratislava told us mysteriously, “And make sure you do a cruise on the Danube River, although it is not as pretty there as it is here in Slovakia.”
Wary of gypsies (we shouldn’t have been) and hungry for pastry, we took on our first day in Budapest.
I wanted to see what the Habsburgs had left behind, and perhaps re-live a bit of those glory days. Eastern Europe, to me, seemed both a communist battleground and an elegant ballroom. I was ready for horse-drawn carriage rides and waltzes and tea time. And of course there is all of that, and more.
Budapest is a modern, style-conscious city filled with university students (and their hipster nightlife) from around the world. It is also an ancient city, formed by the Turks and the Christians. It is a former Nazi and Communist strong-hold, and a place of celebrated revolution. The layers of history in Budapest are not overlapped, but rather blended together on the surface like an oil-slick. You will visit a dozen eras, each potent and intriguing, every day.
"This city and me, it is love at first sight"
- from my travel journal
(a perfectly sized, black moleskin notebook)
Here's how we spent our three days:
DAY ONE
OVERVIEW: 8:45 am: Hotel Breakfast / 9:30 am: Hop On, Hop Off Tour / 10:30 am: Citadella on Gellert Hill and Monuments / 12:00 pm: Gellert Thermal Spa / 4:00 pm: Great Market Hall / 5:30 pm: Goulash and Dumplings at a Sidewalk Cafe / 7:00 pm: Dance Performance at National Theatre / 10:30 pm: Kaltenberg Tavern
Hop On, Hop Off Tour
 |
| I was very excited to hop on! |
Citadella on Gellert Hill
Gellert Thermal Spa
Next, we walked through the castle garden, down the mountain, to the Gellert Spa. It was lovely. The spa is incredible; a grand, posh old building with a long curved glass ceiling inside the lobby.
Inside, there is a large thermal pool surrounded by impossibly tall marble Roman-style columns. It's 26 degrees. There are also women's and men's sections which most people enjoy sans suit. Those pools very slightly in temperature and due to specific mineral content are labelled for certain ailments. It is a natural healing centre.
Outside, where it was really starting to feel like Autumn, were two wave pools and several showers. It was a bit of a maze to get there but worth it for the sunshine and fresh air.
We also had massages (which were not very pleasant) and I had the strangest - really, really strangest - pedicure of my life. It was delivered by a man in his mid-sixties who used very sharp, basic blades with surgical precision and did not speak any English.
I opted out of the foot massage and polish portion.
We also had massages (which were not very pleasant) and I had the strangest - really, really strangest - pedicure of my life. It was delivered by a man in his mid-sixties who used very sharp, basic blades with surgical precision and did not speak any English.
I opted out of the foot massage and polish portion.
Great Market Hall
Goulash, Dumplings and Beer at a Sidewalk Cafe
One of the nicest things about Budapest is the number of pedestrian-only streets, filled with eateries and bars. Walking from Great Market Hall, we strolled down a few of them before finding a perfect patio for beer and Goulash soup.
As I mentioned, the weather was really cooling off (after the heat of Southern France and Italy, it was a bit of a shock) and the warm soups were a real treat.
I had a spicy seafood soup and JK ordered the beef goulash but both seemed pretty similar, with a dark red colour and the perfect smoky-sweet paprika flavour.
The soups were OK (they arrived with a potato salad and a bunch of pickled onions) and the desert - a sugary crepe-like pastry - was delicious.
This was the first time I realized a jean jacket and shawl were not going to be warm enough.
Dance Performance at The National Theatre
We continued walking, parallel to the river, with no real destination in mind. Of course, that's when stumble across the most incredible sights. For us, it was an art museum, its walls studded with delicate gargoyles, which was closed.
However, all around the grounds were beautiful instillation pieces. (Have I mentioned that there is art everywhere in Budapest?!?) We wandered through the art garden for a while before discovering what looked like another gallery behind the first. This one was open and, as it turned out, it was The National Theatre.
We went inside and bought two tickets for whatever was on stage at 7:00 pm (we had, serendipitously, stumbled through the doors around 6:45.) It was a modern dance show called SEVEN and it was beautiful, startling, intriguing and powerful. We talked about it for hours afterward. You can see a glimpse for yourself here (That is the website for the Pál Frenák Company, which performed the piece. They are based in both Budapest and Paris.)What luck that we caught the show that night!
The theatre itself is also gorgeous, and well worth a tour even if you don't see a show.
The theatre itself is also gorgeous, and well worth a tour even if you don't see a show.
Something strange happened that night though ... after the performance the entire audience applauded in sync, as if to a beat. You know what I mean? Everyone clapped AT THE SAME TIME. Clap. Clap. Clap. Clap. No random applause. A standing, staccato clapping. Anyway, it seemed weird.
 |
| One of many art pieces outside the National Theatre |
How did we find it? We wandered through the streets, after dark, in the general direction of our hotel, until we saw a bright side in a dark alley that said: Kaltenberg. Taking the stone steps below sidewalk level, we entered the bar, took a seat and perused the menu.
Remember when I said the currency is confusing? So are the bills. Here's a picture:
 |
| A giant meal with beer (for 2) cost 6000 HUF or about $26 CDN |
Word of warning: the platters were terribly big. Way to big for us to eat it all. We ordered a cheese plate and meat plate. Included was sausage, pig knuckle, ham, bread dumplings, sauerkraut, a dozen cheeses and so on. We took the left-overs away in a box and gave them to some homeless people.
And THAT was our first day in Budapest.
LINKS:
Kaltenberg Tavern: http://www.kaltenberg.hu/etterem/etterem
National Theatre: http://www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu/home/
Great Market Hall: http://www.piaconline.hu/
Gellert Thermal Spa: http://www.gellertbath.com/
Gellert Hill & Monuments: http://www.destinationguidebudapest.com/the-citadella-on-gellert-hill-affords-wonderful-views-of-budapest
Hop On, Hop Off: http://www.citytour.hu/en/index.html
DAY TWO
House of Terror Museum
 |
| The signage along Andrassy Blvd. is very good |
What can I say about this museum, except that one MUST see it while in Budapest?
The building itself once housed the Nazi Party and, later, it served as headquarters for the Communist party's secret police force. In the basement, there are torture rooms and cave-like holding cells. The outside walls of the building are adorned with black and white portraits of those interrogated and killed inside.
This is an incredible museum. The exhibits inside are detailed, evocative and totally immersive. As a monument to the victims, citizens and revolutionary history of Hungary... it is ... heart-squeezing. And while I loved this place, the chilling effect it once had on the city is certainly made real. The rest of our day, and indeed I think the rest of our trip up the Iron Curtain, was affected by this.
We walked for a long while in silence.
Everything looked different.
You can read about and see some of the exhibits here, on the website.
Creamy Garlic Soup in Bread Bowls
Creamy Garlic Soup in Bread Bowls
 |
| Terrible service but a DELICIOUS soup and salad lunch |
City Park of Budapest
We took the Hop On, Hop Off bus to the city park, at the top of Andrassy Blvd, and walked around.
There is a monument to the 1956 Revolution here as well as this TIMEWHEEL. --->
It is a giant hour glass that moves clockwise, marking one year at every rotation. Inside is what looks like sand but is actually tiny particles of glass. It's the largest hourglass in the world and there is something really compelling about it.
After our heart-stopping journey through history at the Terror House and then a ride up the grand boulevard with the music of Frank Liszt playing through our audio guides... this particular marker of time seemed ... fascinating. We just stood in front of it and thought about time and history and what will happen next and how we all fit into it together. It's a really neat piece.
And it is within a beautiful green space, off a busy main stretch of road.
From here we walked to nearby Hero's Square.
And it is within a beautiful green space, off a busy main stretch of road.
From here we walked to nearby Hero's Square.
Heroes' Square (Hősök Tere)
Szechenyi Bath
So this was our second trip to a spa in Budapest. I liked the Gellert Spa much better; it was super clean and just a beautiful space to be in. However, this is the most famous and well-used thermal bath in the city. I do suggest you check it out.
The inside pools seemed kind of gross and sketchy. You'll see. It's a weird, winding, prison-like space underground that connects a bunch of steamy rooms. Most people are naked.
But outside, the pools are really great. We spent a long time there (in bathing suits). One small, outdoor pool has a tidal current that will pull you in circles around its perimeters. That was really, really fun.
NOTE: Spending a few hours every day in hot pools is a really great way to enjoy your honeymoon.
The waters here range from 26 - 38 degrees are are supplied by St. Stephen's Well. Like all natural hot springs, these thermal waters contain a bunch of minerals, said to cure everything from arthritis to gallstones.
Hungarian Folk Ensemble & Dinner Cruise
So, three things I remember about this performance:
1. We were the youngest members of the audience by about 30 years. Yes. YES.
2. It was the only thing we really planned - bought tickets in advance - and so, of course, we were late.
3. I loved it! The musicians were incredible and the dancing was superb.Well worth it, we thought in the end.
And then there was the dinner cruise on the Danube. Again, most of the other patrons were twice our age, at least, but who cares. We were going to a nightclub afterwards anyway. Budapest at night is BEAUTIFUL.
The architecture is just so grand. Everything is lit up. It's totally romantic and a nice way to see the city.
But, here's how JK remembered it, in our travel journal:
"It feels wrong to criticize any outing that offers waterfront views of Budapest's spectacular architure, bridges, sculptures and cliffsides. But for these given factors, the cruise was without merit. The buffet was cold and mediocre, the candlight supplied by halogens and the elevator muzac an insult to the country's musical heritage. I admire Jess for her ability to remain uncritical of these elements in favour of the romantic scenery."So ... you decide for yourself whether its worth the trip.
Here are the LINKS:
Hungarian Folk Dance & Dinner Cruise: http://www.heritagehouse.hu/mane/
Szechenyi Spa: http://www.szechenyibath.com/
Komedias Kavehaz (Comedian Cafe): http://komediaskavehaz.hu/
Terror Museum: http://www.terrorhaza.hu/en
DAY THREE
OVERVIEW: 9:00 am: Haircut at Zsidró Salon / 11:00 am: Take-away brunch from Duran Szendvics / 1:00 pm: Shopping / 4:30 pm: National Art Gallery / 6:00 pm: Buda Castle / 8:00 pm: Romantic dinner for two at Bel CantoBest Haircut of My LIFE (Zsidró Salon, Andrassy)
After travelling for a few weeks by train and backpack, my normally thick, wavy, luscious hair was a damp, tangled mess. It felt amazing to have it washed, brushed, dried and cut. Also, now it is lighter and slighter shorter with many layers and bangs.
JK keeps looking at me, smiling and winking while saying things like, "It's so sassy," and, "I like this Euro Jess." It is very nice.
After the haircut, which ended around 11 am and cost roughly 8000 HUF or $34 CDN, I picked up some little open-faced sandwiches in various flavours and brought them back to the hotel for us.
They are so delicate and pretty and tasty.
Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of them. There were six in a box and we ate them in bed.
The place is called Duran Szendvics and the website is here. There are also lots of pictures and good reviews on TripAdvisor, here. Each open-faced sandwich is around $1 CDN, or 150 - 280 HUFF.
This is a map showing my route from the hair salon, to the sandwich shop and back to the hotel.
View Larger Map
Shopping Mall!
I didn't want to go shopping, but it was really cold.
So we took a tram/streetcar to the Buda side of town. I really needed gloves and a warmer coat. All I had was my jean jacket (which, with sweaters and scarves had worked pretty well until now) and mostly skirts. Thank goodness I picked up some tights.
We went to a shopping mall close to the castle district and within 45 minutes I bought a coat, scarf, jeans, 2 Angora wool sweaters (thin but warm) and two t-shirts. It came out to around 200 Euros.
Continuing our walk, we found our way to the National Art Gallery.
 |
| Two Macaws, a Cockatoo and a Jay, with Fruit (Bogdani, 1710) |
This is a beautiful gallery where both JK and I could have spent many hours. It is located within the Buda Palace walls, open until 6:00 pm and costs 1200 HUF per person for general admission ($5 CDN).
When we arrived, the contemporary exhibits were closed, which was disappointing, but we did take in an incredible display of art before 1945. Many of the Hungarian paintings from the 1930s were most striking to me, although I've always been fascinated by the inter-war period in Europe.
There was also a graphic design collection; book covers, travel posters and Red Army recruitment fliers.
I was all simply incredible. And while there was also a floor of Baroque and Gothic work - giant, bloody scenes - I could have stayed in the early 20th century forever. As it was, the gallery closed at 6:00 pm.
So we walked back to the castle entry, had a brief encounter with a roving violinist who played Bartok and insisted that I pose for a photo with his instrument, then stumbled across a string trio playing in what seemed to be an open-air cafe atop the castle walls.
Buda Castle
I wanted to go to a nightclub called A38 (an old four-story barge docked under a Buda-side bridge) but we were both unsure if that was how we wanted to spend our last night in Budapest. We decided to wait for Bratislava or Berlin, where we have friends and family, to go clubbing.
Instead, we took a night walk down the castle mountain and across a bridge with two lions, past the imposing St. Stephen Basilica and down the hipsters' stretch to a little restaurant called Bel Canto, right next to the Opera House and a block and a half from our hotel.
Instead, we took a night walk down the castle mountain and across a bridge with two lions, past the imposing St. Stephen Basilica and down the hipsters' stretch to a little restaurant called Bel Canto, right next to the Opera House and a block and a half from our hotel.
There was a string quartet and piano player, a singer at times, and a fleet of singing waiters. Between courses they would suddenly line up at the front of the restaurant and belt out Hungarian folk or opera songs.
While I was in the washroom, JK requested a traditional Hungarian love song for me. Just before the desert was served, the violinist came and played at our table; a haunting and full melody that was so beautiful!
 |
| Crispy Goose Leg |
For dinner we had: one btl Champagne, one btl Chardonnay, two btls still water, mushroom soup (him), vegetarian strudel (me; a filo pastry filled with ricotta, goat cheese, spinach, herbs and grilled veggies - amazing!), fried turkey breast wrapped in ham with marsala sauce and mini duchess potatoes (him), crispy goose leg with red steamed cabbage and potato (me).
It came to 31000 HUF or $133 CDN.
It came to 31000 HUF or $133 CDN.
JK's main course was tastier than mine, but we both woke up in the middle of the night with all of hat food and wine just sitting in our tummies and making our heads spin. A new vow - no more eating right before bed!
Also, it was a lovely dinner, a great way to spend our final night here and maybe our first chance to reflect on the fact that we are now married! Forever.It was a perfect day! Now, on to Vienna.
Also, it was a lovely dinner, a great way to spend our final night here and maybe our first chance to reflect on the fact that we are now married! Forever.It was a perfect day! Now, on to Vienna.
 |
| JK records memories of Budapest while I take a look at what's to come in Vienna |
LINKS:Zsidró Salon:
http://www.zsidro.net/Duran Szendvics: www.duran.hu/
National Art Gallery: http://www.mng.hu/en/
Buda Castle: http://www.labirintus.com/en/
Bel Canto Restaurant: http://www.belcanto.hu/
A38 Nightclub: http://www.a38.hu/en/
National Art Gallery: http://www.mng.hu/en/
Buda Castle: http://www.labirintus.com/en/
Bel Canto Restaurant: http://www.belcanto.hu/
A38 Nightclub: http://www.a38.hu/en/
No comments:
Post a Comment